(c)1998 Drew Avis (strangebrewsoftware@gmail.com). All rights reserved. This document may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the author. Last update: December 21, 1998.
This is a collection of the top ten most commonly asked questions on the newsgroup rec.crafts.brewing. There's a more comprehensive list in the RCB FAQ (see the link below).
|
1. Is my beer ruined…
|
Maybe. Except in the last example, bad things can happen to your beer and it can turn out ok. Or it can turn out to be the most rancid abomination to curse the earth. RCB readers don't know unless you send them some, and even then they may not have a clue. Only you can tell. Continue along as if everything is ok, and taste your beer at the end of the secondary. If it's ok, bottle it. If not, feed it to the fishes. If something you normally wouldn't ingest makes it way into your beer, it's a good idea to continue not ingesting it. Beer cures many ills, but will not make Clorox safe to drink. |
|
2. Can I use an aluminum brewpot?
|
I can't remember. I mean, yes. The link between aluminum and Alzheimer’s was based on flawed research. There is currently no evidence that aluminum cookware is harmful. In fact, aluminum is about 10 times better at conducting heat than stainless steel, so it is an excellent material for brewing. Do not use caustic cleaners on aluminum, as they will pit the metal. |
|
3. Is liquid yeast better than dry yeast?
|
No (ok, sometimes). There are several brands of dry yeast that are highly recommended and make clean, quality ales (Danstar and Cooper’s are two examples). However, there are many varieties of liquid yeast that are not available in dry form. Lager yeasts are one example. If you are making a bock or Bavarian wheat beer, liquid yeasts are a better choice style-wise. |
|
4. Should I use a starter with liquid yeast?
|
Yes. A starter will increase the amount of yeast you are pitching, which will result in faster starts, more complete fermentation, and lower chances of infection. Most liquid yeast manufacturers recommend a starter. Even "pitchable" packs of liquid yeast will benefit from a starter. Keep in mind that many people use liquid yeast without a starter and swear by it. |
|
5. How do I make a liquid yeast starter?
|
There are excellent instructions in the RCB FAQ and at the Wyeast web site (http://www.wyeastlab.com). Essentially:
|
|
6. Is all-grain better than extract / steeping / mini-mash brewing?
|
No (ok, sometimes). Making beer from extract is the best way to learn, hands down, and can produce award-winning beer. Check out Zymurgy each month, and you'll see an AHA award winning beer made from extract, or extract with specialty grains. That being said, there are some styles that are difficult or impossible to make with extracts, because malt extract is darkened when it is produced. Any beer style that is lighter than deep gold or copper will be difficult to re-produce. These include many of the styles beginning brewers most want to produce (American lagers, Bohemian pilsners, Mexican rat beer). Find the level of brewing your are comfortable with, and stick with it, and don't let anyone tell you your beer is inferior. |
|
7. I would like to brew a beer that tastes just like… |
OK. There are several good sources for recipes on the Internet. Check out the Cat's Meow database. If there's nothing there that appeals to you, here's a couple of books to get you started. You can buy them all on Amazon.com.
|
|
8. What is the "no sparge" method? |
A mash technique that may make maltier, smoother beer. This technique was covered in Brewing Techniques vol 6, issue 4 (Jul/Aug 98). Simply, it involves increasing your grist by 25-30%. The mash is then drained, and no sparge water is added. You top up the runnings with water to reach your boil volume. This technique may help create maltier beer because fewer tannins are extracted from the grain. This is debatable, as if you are careful to keep your mash pH under 6, tannin extraction should not be a problem. |
|
9. My beer is cloudy when it's cold. Can I make it clear? |
Yes. But first ask yourself, how much does really clear beer mean to me? The same proteins that cause chill haze help with mouthfeel and head retention. Perfectly clear beer may come at a price - reduced body and thin head - especially if you use finnings. There are four approaches to fixing chill haze:
|
|
10. What's the best book to buy to start brewing? |
Tough one. Charlie Papazian's The New Joy of Homebrewing (TNJH) is written in an easy to understand style, and covers all the basics. It is still a classic, and is the first book most homebrewers use. For anything more advanced than extract + specialty grains, however, the book is problematic. Al Korzonas has a beginner's book, Homebrewing vol I, aimed at beginners, is reportedly very good, although I haven't read it. Several people have claimed this book is more accurate and comprehensive than TNJH. More advanced brewers will want to check out New Brewing Lager beer by Greg Noonan, and Designing Great Beers, by Ray Daniels. Both are excellent. Noonan covers mashing and decoction in great detail. Daniels focuses on advanced recipe formulation for all-grain brewers. |
You stupid moron, you didn't answer my question.
So cry me a river. Below are some links to pages that cover home brewing in more detail. If you can't find your answer there, try posting to RCB. But beware, there is some bad advice floating around on RCB... advice may be worth what you pay for it.